Instructions for braies - making and sewing medieval linen shorts (braies, underpants)

Ass!? Whoever's got it, check it out. You've already learned in my blog that we're trying to sew simple and up-to-date medieval clothing for the poor, everyday person. We already know what fabric and weave to choose and why. Now let's test your sewing skill with the simplest thing and that is medieval shorts.

It's primarily a men's affair.

If women had any underpants in early medieval Scandinavia, I don't want to say whether they only wore them on certain days and on others it was unnecessary and impractical. Those who know, let them tell, but our activity at the moment is focused on creating some middle ground of what we can reconstruct with ordinary pieces of clothing, not advocating for scraps of very extraordinary pieces of textiles without further analogies. But girls, if you're worried about falling down somewhere and throwing your feet up, sew yourself one too!

So what won't cost you anything more than an evening and your nerves is BRUCHES.

We've chosen two patterns, and by sewing them, you'll have an open path to attempting to measure yourself and make pants in future posts. (I'm trying to write this for people who have never measured or cut anything, so please indulge the old crafty people. It's something to practice on.

For us, the criterion for choosing the cut of these pra-shirts is that they fit well into narrow trousers. Most of the finds that we have found are either made of a huge amount of fabric and resemble more like diapers, but this clashes with the requirement for a poorer person and they were really sparing with the fabric. Others have tuning in the form of several pieces for comfort. Their construction is quite a science, and also seems to be primarily a creation to be able to sit on a horse. But our "poor guy" won't ride a horse. And the fit is complicated and well done by someone who knows their stuff and has stitched it multiple times, I'm really not going to paint it on with a marker because every butt is different. If you want that kind of sewing from a taller girl, contact a seamstress (if you don't know one, write, refer). 

We'll hopefully have a cut that will allow for a comfortable stride, sit and even a nice run from the raiders from the next farm to begin with.

▶️ We recommend to take the most ordinary old linen sheet (or other cloth) for the first attempt and thus the creation of the CUT and to cut the squares from it according to the instructions. Scissors, needle, stitching thread (easy to tear), pins and the final material - linen in linen weave, linen thread (or button thread) and to finish with string, lantern or thin solid colour card. 

☝️ The most simple way to cut the belly will be from the Moschevska Balka. Don't worry about it, Viking sewing is pretty much all about geometry. 

So you need to measure:

Circumference across thighs/ circumference of buttocks/ circumference of waist - measure, choose the largest of the numbers and divide by two. The circumference will be tightened with a lucet - add 10 cm, you are not making tight boxers and you don't want to rip it right away. Divide by two to get the first measurements for both sides.

Length - will these be just the bellies under the trousers, i.e. short so they barely hide the lemrouche? Or do you prefer longer pants so you can jump into the pond in them like shorts? So the other side of the square/rectangle will be your "favourite" length.

 The crotch is the part that determines your comfort. Cut the square big, with a diagonal of maybe 40 cm, so you can take off. Cut the corners first at about the top of the thigh. It is possible that the corner will then not reach the edge of the abdomen. Never mind, it is still desirable to have a small V in the middle, like a slit (where the zipper and button are on jeans). This will then be pulled up according to the size of the tunnel for the drawstring. 

✌️ Another option is the mid-calf as a simple rectangle, which will make the belly fit more snug and visually pleasing, but you need to have the ideal proportions and keep in mind that for comfort you don't widen the legs unnecessarily, but ideally the mid-legs to the sides. So measure from the belly button to the hip, again adding at least 10 centimetres for a comfortable fit and to avoid seam ripping. 

Translation of descriptions

ℹ️ Interesting extra tip!

You can cut the linen in plain weave from which you will sew the underwear at a 45 degree angle from the warp, it moves better. The cuts will be bigger then, yes, you can make patches out of the scraps when your first tummies are tucked in. 

You will use the experience gained from this sewing in your next trouser sewing. 

Owners of standardized buttocks can measure the shorts themselves and sew it accordingly, adding inches on all sides.

Don't forget to wash the fabric beforehand - it would be a chore to wash the threads as well, so they don't fray. 

When measuring, add 1-2 cm to the foundation.

Add at least 5-8 cm to the length of the tunnel you want to make.

Backstitching and hemming with a ladder is essential, plus - backstitching is the only stitch found in Viking in both Denmark, Sweden and Norway! Other stitches are your choice, like the overcast stitch. 

P.S.: You can walk on eggshells, if it goes wrong, we won't tell anyone.

P. P. S.: The linen for underwear and lingerie is not condemned in any way. It was more expensive, but not unaffordable. You can argue that damp linen is the worst thing there can be (true ) and make your trencle out of smooth/rough wool, well... whatever one can bear. But it would be more of an ordeal. The fabric is supposed to protect that one from being brushed against the wool.

Do you have any advice or recommendations? An even better cut? I'm on it! We're in this together!